Chez Palmyre

Chez Palmyre is a tiny traditional bistro at 5 Rue Droite in Vieux Nice, in the Provence-Alpes-Côte d'Azur region of France. It serves a fixed-menu, home-style Niçoise meal from a slate menu that changes every two weeks, and the very small room is central to its character. The cuisine is Niçoise, with the emphasis on dishes that families in Nice have cooked for generations rather than on creative reinterpretation. Signature dishes include petits farcis, tomatoes, peppers and courgettes stuffed with rice and herbs, tripes à la niçoise, paupiettes de veau and rillettes de sardines. The farcis and the tripes are the preparations most closely tied to the venue's reputation, and the fortnightly rotation means the exact set of dishes varies by visit. The dining room is cramped, cosy and noisy in the way of old-town addresses, with tight tables, a convivial mood and informal service; there is no dress code. Because the room is so small, the experience can feel communal, and diners are asked to be patient at peak times. Drinks are simple, usually a carafe of local wine or rosé. The price range is low: Gault&Millau puts the cost at about €22 (about $25) per person excluding drinks, and fixed menus have been reported at €15 to €25 (about $17 to $29), which makes it one of the more affordable sit-down meals in the old town. Reservations are essential, because the room is very small, and visitors can phone +33 4 93 85 72 32. Opening hours are uncertain: OpenStreetMap shows Monday, Tuesday and Thursday to Saturday from 12:00 to 13:30 and 19:30 to 21:30, with closure on Wednesday and Sunday, but one guide lists different closing days, so a phone call before visiting is the safest course. The location on Rue Droite makes it simple to combine with a walk through the old town.