Chez Marthe, Collioure

Chez Marthe is a beloved harbourfront restaurant in Collioure, the small Catalan fishing village on the Côte Vermeille in Pyrénées-Orientales, Occitanie, where the Mediterranean meets the Pyrenees at the Spanish border. The village has been famous for its anchovies since the medieval period — the salted anchovies of Collioure were a trading commodity throughout Europe — and the restaurant celebrates this heritage with dishes built around the local catch. The anchovies here are served in multiple preparations: fresh grilled, marinated in oil and herbs, as a toast topping with local rouille, and as part of the catalane salad with peppers and olives. The broader menu draws on the Catalan culinary tradition shared across the border with Spanish Catalonia: bouillabaisse catalane, suquet de peix (Catalan fish stew), and grilled whole fish of the day. The setting is as important as the food: the terrace looks directly over the harbour to the colourful fishing boats and the 13th-century Château Royal. The local wine pairing of choice is Banyuls — the fortified wine produced in the vineyards that climb steeply above Collioure — served as an aperitif with the anchovy starters. Collur's natural wines from Collioure AOC (dry, unfortified) also feature on the list. The restaurant is busiest from June to September when Collioure's beach visitors swell the population; booking ahead for lunch is wise during this period.