The Smoking Dog

The Smoking Dog is a long-running English-style pub at 16 Rue Lainerie in Vieux Lyon, the Renaissance quarter on the right bank of the Saone in the 5th arrondissement of Lyon, France. It occupies a vaulted stone building typical of the old town, and the dim, wood-and-brick interior gives it the feel of a cellar pub rather than a modern bar. The crowd is mixed: students from Lyon's universities, expatriates and English speakers who treat it as a regular spot, and visitors exploring the pedestrian lanes of the UNESCO-listed old town. The age range runs from the early twenties to middle age, and the atmosphere is relaxed and sociable rather than dressy; casual clothing is the norm and no dress code is reported. Music is incidental, usually a pub playlist of rock and pop at conversation volume, so the room works for talking as much as for drinking. The drinks programme centres on beer, with draught and bottled options, alongside a shelf of whiskies and a list of classic cocktails. Wine and soft drinks are also served, and the venue is generally described as a place for a long evening of pints rather than a cocktail destination. Opening hours are reported as daily from late afternoon to about 1AM, with the busiest period on Thursday to Saturday nights when the vaulted rooms fill and standing room becomes common; hours should be confirmed on arrival, as they can shift seasonally. There is no cover charge, entry is free and unfiltered, and reservations are not normally needed for small groups, although larger parties may want to ask at the bar ahead of time. Bottle service is not part of the pub's format. Rue Lainerie runs parallel to the busier Rue Saint-Jean, so the pub offers a short walk from the cathedral area and the Vieux Lyon metro stop, making it a convenient first or last stop on a night in the old town. Prices are typical for central Lyon, with a pint usually costing roughly €6-8 (about $6.70-9).