The Chemin des Muletiers (Mule Track Path) is the historic pedestrian route to the summit of Puy de Dôme (1,465m), the highest of the chain of volcanoes in the Chaîne des Puys — a UNESCO World Heritage Site in the Auvergne-Rhône-Alpes region. The trail begins at the Col de Ceyssat car park at approximately 815 metres in Orcines and ascends 650 metres over 4.6 kilometres of well-worn ancient track, following the same route used since Gallo-Roman times to reach the Temple of Mercury at the summit.
The Col de Ceyssat car park on Route du Col de Ceyssat is free and accessible by car or by the seasonal TPC line B6 shuttle bus from Clermont-Ferrand city centre during summer months. No permit is required. The path is clearly waymarked throughout and follows a consistent southwest-facing incline on a series of wide switchbacks.
The surface alternates between compacted volcanic lava gravel, restored stone-paved sections from the original Roman mule track, and packed earth. The ascent is sustained but rhythmic, passing through broom-covered volcanic slopes before emerging above the treeline onto open basalt ridges. Shade is limited above 1,000 metres, making heat exposure significant during summer afternoons. The final 200 metres rise steeply through the ruins of the 1st–2nd century AD Temple of Mercury to the summit plateau.
Key landmarks include the Barrière des Aiguilles viewpoint at approximately 1,100 metres with views across the Limagne plain, the Temple of Mercury ruins at the summit, and the Panoramique des Dômes rack railway station — where descents are available at approximately €8 one-way. The summit offers 360-degree views across more than 80 volcanic domes and, on clear days, the Massif Central as far as the Cantal. A staffed visitor centre and café operate at the summit in season. No water sources exist on the trail — hikers must carry a minimum of 2 litres from the car park.
Trail facts
- Trail area
- Orcines, Puy-de-Dôme, Auvergne
- Best season
- May–October (trail clear of snow)
What to bring
Comfortable trekking shoes, water (2L minimum), sun protection; no technical gear required
Location
Parking du Col de Ceyssat, Route du Col de Ceyssat, 63870 Orcines
45.7589, 2.9572 View on map
Highlights
- 360-degree panorama across the UNESCO Chaîne des Puys volcanic chain from the summit at 1,465m
- Gallo-Roman Temple of Mercury ruins dating to the 1st–2nd century AD at the summit plateau
- Expansive views across the Limagne plain and Allier valley from the Barrière des Aiguilles mid-trail viewpoint
- Historic stone-paved mule track sections restored to their ancient Roman-era alignment
- Optional descent by the Panoramique des Dômes rack railway for a novel perspective on the volcanic chain
Tips for visiting
- Ascend via the Chemin des Muletiers and descend by the Panoramique des Dômes rack railway (approx €8 one-way) to save the knees and enjoy a different view of the volcano
- Start before 10:00 AM in July and August — the summit car park fills by mid-morning and crowds peak between 11:00 AM and 3:00 PM
- Carry at least 2 litres of water — no source exists between the Col de Ceyssat car park and the summit café
- Wind at the summit can be 20–30 km/h stronger than at the base; a windproof layer is advisable even on warm days
- Dogs are welcome on the trail and at the summit when kept on a lead
When to visit
May to October offers clear, snow-free trail conditions. Early mornings before 9:00 AM in July and August provide the sharpest views before heat haze builds over the volcanic plateau and crowds arrive on the summit.
Accessibility
The Chemin des Muletiers trail is not wheelchair- or stroller-accessible due to steep volcanic gravel slopes and stone-paved sections requiring full mobility. The summit terrace is partially accessible via the Panoramique des Dômes rack railway, which brings visitors to paved viewing areas near the top suitable for wheelchair users arriving by train.
Frequently asked questions
Can visitors descend by cable car or train instead of walking?
Yes. The Panoramique des Dômes rack railway connects the summit to its base station; a one-way descent ticket costs approximately €8 (approx USD 9). Tickets are purchased at the summit station.
Is the summit of Puy de Dôme accessible without hiking?
Yes. The Panoramique des Dômes rack railway runs from its base station to the summit and is open to all visitors regardless of hiking ability. Return tickets cost approximately €15 (approx USD 16).
How difficult is the Chemin des Muletiers?
The trail is graded moderate. The 4.6-kilometre ascent gains 650 metres on a consistent gradient. Children aged 8 and above with reasonable fitness typically complete the ascent in under 2 hours.
Is there food or water on the trail?
No water sources exist between the Col de Ceyssat car park and the summit café. The summit café and visitor centre serve hot food, snacks, and drinks during summer operating hours (typically May to October).