Nicosia and the Green Line

Nicosia (Lefkosia), the capital of Cyprus, lies about 150 km east of Paphos in the centre of the island. The drive takes around 1 hour 45 minutes by motorway, and a few intercity buses run daily, so the trip is feasible without a car but needs an early start and a check of the return timetable. Nicosia is the last divided capital in Europe, split by the UN-patrolled Green Line, and the old city sits inside a circle of Venetian walls with eleven bastions. The main pedestrian artery is Ledra Street, which ends at a border crossing into the northern part of the city. Visitors crossing on foot should carry a passport or identity card and follow the current entry rules, which can change. Key sights on the southern side include the Cyprus Museum, the island's main archaeological collection, the Byzantine Museum with its icons, the Leventis Municipal Museum, Faneromeni Square and the Laiki Geitonia district of restored lanes, craft shops and cafés. A suggested day takes the early bus to arrive by mid-morning, spends the morning at the Cyprus Museum and the old city, has lunch at a taverna in Laiki Geitonia, and uses the afternoon for Ledra Street, the Venetian walls and, optionally, a crossing into the north to see the Selimiye Mosque and the old bazaar area. Visitors should leave time for the return bus. The best season is October to May, as summer in the inland capital is very hot. Food stops are plentiful in the old city, with meze restaurants and cafés serving Cypriot coffee and sweets. Opening hours of museums vary and many close on Mondays or in the early afternoon, so checking in advance avoids wasted time on a long trip.