La Puerta Falsa

La Puerta Falsa is Bogotá's oldest surviving restaurant, trading since 1816 from a narrow two-storey shop at Calle 11 #6-50 in La Candelaria, a block from Plaza de Bolívar in Colombia's capital. The place has served generations of politicians, students and visitors and remains a reference point for traditional santafereña cooking, the cuisine of the Bogotá highlands. The counter is the heart of the operation: staff turn out tamal santafereño, a large steamed parcel of corn dough, pork, chicken, potato and vegetables wrapped in banana leaf, and ajiaco santafereño, the city's signature soup of three potato varieties, chicken, corn and guascas served with cream and capers. The other emblematic order is the chocolate santafereño, hot chocolate served with a block of cheese to drop into the cup and an almojábana or bread on the side, a combination that is a Bogotá tradition. Jars and shelves of sweets, including traditional desserts, line the front of the shop. The dining space is tiny and tight, with a small number of tables downstairs and additional seating on the upper floor, so visitors sit close to other diners. The atmosphere is bustling, historic and unpretentious, with noise from the street and the counter; there is no dress code. Prices are low, roughly COP 12,000-35,000 per person (about $4-11), which makes it one of the cheapest ways to sample the city's classic dishes. Reservations are not taken and the restaurant is walk-in only, so queues are normal at lunchtime and at weekends. Visitors who arrive mid-morning or mid-afternoon usually wait less. Its position beside the Plaza de Bolívar means it fits easily into a walking day through the historic centre, near the cathedral, the Capitolio Nacional and the Gold Museum. Opening hours are approximately 7AM to 10PM daily, though times can shift on holidays.