Ji'an Goguryeo Heritage Sites

Ji'an, in Tonghua Prefecture of Jilin Province, northeast China, was a capital of the ancient Goguryeo kingdom, and its tombs, stelae and mountain fortress form part of the UNESCO World Heritage listing for the Capital Cities and Tombs of the Ancient Koguryo Kingdom. The town sits beside the Yalu River facing North Korea. It lies about 220 km south of Tonghua city, and the journey takes about 3 hours each way. A train from Tonghua to Ji'an costs CNY 40-70, a coach costs CNY 50-90, and a car with driver costs about CNY 600-900 per day. Once in Ji'an, a taxi hired for the day, at about CNY 150-300, is the most practical way to link the sites, which are spread across the city and the nearby hills. Combined site tickets cost about CNY 100-150. The main stops include the General's Tomb, a stepped stone pyramid often described as the Tomb of the General, the Taewang Tomb and the Haotaiwang Stele, and the Wandu Mountain City fortress on the slopes above the town. Walking between tombs and climbing parts of the fortress walls adds up to a moderate amount of exertion over the day. A suggested itinerary starts with an early train or coach from Tonghua so as to arrive by late morning. Visit the tombs and stele in the middle of the day, break for lunch in town, where Korean-ethnic and northeastern dishes are available, then climb to Wandu Mountain City in the afternoon. Because of the long journey, many visitors stay overnight in Ji'an rather than returning the same day, and checking the last train or coach time is essential. The best season is May to October, when the hills are green and the weather is mild. In winter, snow and cold can make the fortress walk difficult. The site suits history enthusiasts with an interest in Korean and Chinese border history.