Bún Đậu Mắm Tôm Hàng Khay

Bún Đậu Mắm Tôm Hàng Khay is a street-food restaurant in an alley off 29 Hàng Khay, near Hoàn Kiếm Lake in Hanoi, in northern Vietnam. It serves bún đậu mắm tôm, a northern dish of cold rice vermicelli pressed into blocks, served with fried tofu, boiled pork and sausages, and eaten with fermented shrimp paste (mắm tôm). The food arrives on a shared bamboo tray called a mẹt, with fresh herbs on the side. Diners dip pieces of vermicelli, tofu and meat into the shrimp paste, which is usually loosened with a little kumquat juice, sugar and chilli. The flavour is pungent and salty, and it is an acquired taste for first-time visitors, though many travellers try it as part of exploring Hanoi's street food. Signature dishes are the mẹt bún đậu, chả cốm (patties made with young green rice) and nem chua rán, fried fermented pork rolls, which are common additions. The dining room is street-side and informal, with low tables and stools in the lane, and there is no dress code. The atmosphere is lively and casual, with a steady flow of local groups and travellers, and noise is moderate to high at mealtimes. Prices are low, with a typical meal costing about 60,000 to 120,000 VND per person, and larger trays for groups cost more. There is no wine programme; beer, iced tea and soft drinks are common. Hours are approximately daily 10AM to 9PM. Reservations are not taken. First-time diners who are unsure about the shrimp paste can ask for a small amount to be served on the side and add more to taste. The restaurant's location off Hàng Khay, a short walk from Hoàn Kiếm Lake and the Old Quarter, makes it a convenient stop on a walking food tour of central Hanoi, and the shared tray format suits groups of two or more.