A complex of Buddhist shrines set in the limestone hills of Huong Son, reached by a rowing boat along the Yen stream and then either a steep stone path or a cable car up to Huong Tich cave. It is northern Vietnam's largest pilgrimage site and is at its most crowded during the festival that runs from the sixth day of the lunar new year until late spring.
The Perfume Pagoda, or Chua Huong, is a complex of Buddhist shrines set among the limestone hills of Huong Son in My Duc District, about 60 km southwest of central Hanoi, Vietnam. It is the largest pilgrimage site in northern Vietnam, and the journey is part of the experience. The road transfer to Ben Duc wharf takes 1.5 to 2 hours, followed by about an hour each way on a shared rowing boat along the Yen stream, so a full day is needed. Organised tours from the Old Quarter cost roughly 900,000 to 1,500,000 VND including boat, entrance and lunch, and independent visitors can take bus 211 from My Dinh to My Duc and finish by taxi.
The boat glides between rice paddies and karst outcrops, with lotus plants in season, and lands at a cluster of temples at the foot of the mountain, among them Den Trinh (the Presentation Shrine) and Chua Ngoai (the Outer Pagoda). From here visitors either climb a steep stone path of roughly an hour or take the cable car to the upper station, then walk down steps into Huong Tich cave, a large limestone grotto containing a stone statue said to resemble the Buddha's incense burner and an altar lit by candles. Pilgrims burn incense and leave offerings throughout.
A typical day begins with a pickup around 7:00 am, arrival at Ben Duc about 9:00, the boat ride and temple walk until around 12:30, lunch at a simple restaurant at the base of the mountain with rice, tofu and stewed dishes, then the climb or cable car and the cave visit in the early afternoon before the boat back and a return to Hanoi by about 6:00 pm. Wear shoes suited to slippery steps and dress modestly, with shoulders and knees covered.
The pilgrimage festival, from the sixth day of the lunar new year until late spring, brings huge crowds, long queues for the boats and inflated prices, but also a vivid religious atmosphere. September to November is much quieter and the boat ride is more pleasant. The Perfume Pagoda is best suited to visitors who like a mix of scenery, walking and living religious practice.
| Distance | About 60 km / 37 miles from central Hanoi |
|---|---|
| Travel time | 1.5-2 hours by road, plus about 1 hour each way on the rowing boat |
| Getting there | Road transfer to Ben Duc wharf, then a shared rowing boat along the Yen stream; the cable car covers the final climb to Huong Tich cave |
| Difficulty | moderate |
| Address | Ben Duc wharf, Huong Son Commune, My Duc District, Hanoi, Vietnam |
How to get there
- Organised full-day tour from the Old Quarter (about 900,000-1,500,000 VND / 34.62-57.69 USD including boat, entrance and lunch), private car with driver, public bus 211 from My Dinh to My Duc then a local taxi
Location
Ben Duc wharf, Huong Son Commune, My Duc District, Hanoi, Vietnam
20.6200, 105.7644 View on map
Highlights
- Row along the Yen stream past karst hills, paddies and lotus plants
- Visit Den Trinh and Chua Ngoai at the foot of Huong Tich mountain
- Explore the candlelit Huong Tich cave, the main pilgrimage shrine
- Choose between a steep stone path and the cable car for the climb
- Experience the northern Vietnamese pilgrimage festival between January and March
Tips for visiting
- Book an organised tour for simplicity, since boat, entrance and lunch are usually bundled.
- Avoid the festival weeks unless crowds are part of the appeal; boats queue for hours.
- Wear non-slip shoes and modest clothing covering shoulders and knees for temple visits.
- Take the cable car up and walk down if energy is limited; the stone path is steep and slippery when wet.
- Agree any boat tip or fee in advance and keep small notes of 10,000 to 50,000 VND for donations.
When to visit
September to November for quiet boats and pleasant weather; the festival season from the second lunar month to late March is the busiest. Go on weekdays and start early.
Accessibility
The boat requires stepping down from the wharf and the stone steps and cave paths are steep and uneven. Wheelchair access is very limited, though the cable car reduces the climb for those with limited stamina.
Frequently asked questions
How long does the Perfume Pagoda day trip take?
The road journey is 1.5 to 2 hours each way, and the boat ride adds about an hour each way, so the whole trip usually runs 10 to 11 hours.
Is the cable car worth taking?
The cable car saves the steep climb of about an hour and is popular with older visitors. Many walkers use it one way and hike the other.
When is the festival?
The Huong Pagoda festival runs from the sixth day of the lunar new year until about late March or spring, with peak crowds in February.
Is there a dress code?
Yes. Visitors should cover shoulders and knees inside the temples and remove shoes where indicated.