St Joseph's Cathedral (Nha Tho Lon)

St Joseph's Cathedral, Nha Tho Lon, stands at 40 Nha Chung Street in the Hang Trong ward of Hoan Kiem, between Hoan Kiem Lake and the Old Quarter of Hanoi, Vietnam. Consecrated at Christmas 1886, it was built on the site of the demolished Bao Thien Pagoda and is the oldest church in Hanoi and the seat of its archbishop. Its twin square towers and rose window are a scaled-down echo of Notre-Dame de Paris, though the grey, weathered stucco gives it a very different, moody character.

The Neo-Gothic facade dominates a small square, and the visit is largely about the exterior and the atmosphere. Inside, the nave is dim and high, with pointed arches, carved wooden altars and French and Vietnamese stained glass, and worshippers pray in the pews. The cathedral is generally open to visitors from about 08:00 to 11:00 and 14:00 to 20:00, with masses held daily and several on Sundays, and visitors should avoid walking around during services. Entry is free, and a quiet visit takes 20 to 30 minutes.

The short pedestrianised Nha Tho street in front has become a cluster of cafes, including several serving the city's egg coffee, and it is a popular place to sit and watch the square. The best photographs of the facade are taken from the cafe terraces opposite or from the steps at the start of the street. Just before evening mass the interior is lit and the cafes fill up, giving a lively atmosphere, while early morning is quieter.

Crowds gather at weekends and on Christmas, when the square fills for celebrations and it becomes one of the busiest places in the city. Visitors should dress modestly, with shoulders and knees covered, and keep voices low inside. The cathedral is a five-minute walk west from Hoan Kiem Lake and close to the Old Quarter, so it combines easily with a lakeside walk and coffee stop.