Helena's Hawaiian Food

Helena's Hawaiian Food at 1240 N School Street in Honolulu, Hawaii, serves traditional Native Hawaiian plates in the Kalihi-Palama neighborhood and has done so since 1946. The restaurant was founded by Helen Chock, and its long record of serving classic Hawaiian dishes led to a James Beard Foundation America's Classics award, a recognition given to long-standing, locally rooted restaurants rather than to fine-dining chefs. It remains a modest family-run establishment rather than a polished destination restaurant, which is much of its appeal.

The menu centers on the dishes of a traditional Hawaiian plate. Pipikaula short ribs, a dried-and-grilled style of seasoned beef, are the item most often singled out and are considered the house signature. Kalua pig, slow-cooked pork traditionally prepared in an underground oven, laulau (pork or fish wrapped in taro leaves and steamed), squid luau cooked in coconut milk and taro leaves, and haupia coconut pudding round out the repertoire. Poi, lomi salmon and rice often accompany plates, so first-time visitors usually find a combination plate the easiest way to taste several dishes.

The dining room is plain and casual, with a small seating area, quick service and no dress code. The mood is closer to a neighborhood plate-lunch counter than a restaurant with a formal programme, and there is no wine or cocktail list to speak of. Noise levels are moderate, driven by the lunch crowd of residents and visitors who have made the trip from Waikiki.

Reservations are not taken, and waits are common at weekday lunch. Hours run roughly from mid-morning to early evening Tuesday through Friday, and the restaurant is closed on weekends and Mondays, so planning around those days matters more than booking ahead. Prices are moderate, with a plate meal generally around US$20-35 per person. Arriving shortly after opening or in the mid-afternoon lull is the usual way to shorten the wait. The restaurant is outside the main visitor districts, so most travelers arrive by car, rideshare or bus from downtown and Waikiki.