Brat

Brat on Redchurch Street in Shoreditch is chef Tomos Parry's flagship restaurant, holding a Michelin star for cooking centred on a wood-fired grill in the Basque style, drawing directly on the asador tradition of northern Spain and applying it to British seafood and meat. The whole turbot, grilled over wood coals and served for two, is the dish that defines the restaurant and has become one of the most sought-after orders in London, cooked simply with little more than the fire itself, good oil, and seasoning to let the fish's quality speak for itself. A native lobster finished with cultured butter and a lamb dish paired with marsh samphire and anchovy round out a short, ingredient-driven menu that changes with what the wood-fired grill and market can support on a given day. The dining room occupies the upper floor of a converted Shoreditch building, with an open kitchen built around the grill itself, exposed brick, and simple wooden furniture that keeps the focus on the fire and the food rather than elaborate design. The atmosphere is warm and slightly informal for a Michelin-starred restaurant, helped by the visible flames and smoke from the grill and a wine list built to complement the smokiness of the cooking rather than compete with it. Reservations are essential, and tables — particularly for the whole turbot, which requires ordering for the table rather than as an individual portion — are best booked several weeks ahead, especially for weekend dinner. Its Shoreditch location places it at the centre of one of London's most dynamic restaurant neighbourhoods, within walking distance of several other notable openings from the same generation of British chefs.