Ankara is the capital of Turkey and the country's second-largest city, home to around 5.8 million people in the metropolitan area. Founded as the Republic's capital in 1923 by Mustafa Kemal Atatürk, Ankara replaced Istanbul as the seat of government and grew rapidly throughout the 20th century. The city blends its ancient Hittite and Roman heritage with modernist Republican architecture and a vibrant contemporary urban scene. Anıtkabir — Atatürk's mausoleum — is the defining landmark, while the Museum of Anatolian Civilizations ranks among the world's finest archaeological collections. Ankara sits on the central Anatolian plateau at roughly 850 metres above sea level, giving it a continental climate with hot dry summers and cold snowy winters.
Cultural orientation
Essential context for travellers.
Greet with a handshake; close friends exchange cheek kisses — let the local lead on this.
If offered tea (çay) in a shop or home, accepting is polite. Tea does not obligate you to buy anything.
Remove shoes before entering a mosque and when entering a traditional Turkish home — look for a shoe rack at the entrance as a cue.
Bargaining is acceptable at bazaar stalls around the Citadel and outdoor markets; not in malls, restaurants, or shops with price tags.
During Ramadan, eating or drinking in public during fasting hours is not prohibited but requires sensitivity. Many local eateries close during the day.
Photography: always ask before photographing individuals, especially in religious settings or markets.
Tipping: standard 10% in restaurants; round up for taxi drivers; 50–100 TRY (~$1.50–3 USD) for hotel porters.
Republic Day (October 29) sees major celebrations in Ankara — expect crowds at Anıtkabir and around parliament.
Do's and don'ts
Quick guide to local norms.
Do
- Remove shoes when entering a mosque; carry a pair of socks if you plan mosque visits.
- Accept tea when offered in markets and shops — it is a gesture of hospitality.
- Cover shoulders, upper arms, and legs when entering mosques. Women should carry a headscarf.
- Greet with 'Merhaba' (hello) — even a basic attempt at Turkish is warmly appreciated.
- Use 'taksimetre açın lütfen' (please start the meter) in taxis before departure.
- Carry small denomination notes (50–100 TRY) for street food, simit carts, and market stalls.
- Visit Anıtkabir respectfully — it is a sacred national site; maintain a quiet, respectful demeanour.
Don't
- Do not photograph military installations, police checkpoints, or government buildings — this can lead to questioning.
- Do not enter the main prayer hall of a mosque during salah (prayer) time; wait for prayers to finish.
- Do not exchange currency with street touts — use only licensed döviz bürosu (exchange offices).
- Do not assume English will be spoken everywhere; basic Turkish phrases are essential in Ulus markets.
- Do not point the sole of your foot at a person when seated — it is considered disrespectful.
- Do not discuss politics, Kurdish issues, or the Armenian question without knowing your audience — these are sensitive topics.
- Do not drink alcohol in public outside licensed premises; stick to restaurants, bars, and hotels.
Local customs
Traditions and practices you'll encounter.
Etiquette by setting
How to navigate everyday situations.
- Greetings
- Handshake is standard between strangers and acquaintances. Close friends exchange cheek kisses (one on each cheek for women; men shake hands). Use 'Merhaba' (hello) or 'İyi günler' (good day) as a greeting.
- Hospitality
- Turkish hospitality is genuine and generous. If invited to someone's home, bring a small gift (sweets, baklava, flowers). Refusing hospitality (especially tea) repeatedly can cause offence — accept graciously.
- Dining
- Wait to be seated in restaurants. It is polite to say 'Afiyet olsun' (bon appétit) when someone is eating. The host or eldest typically pays in group settings; offer to contribute but do not insist.
- Religious Observance
- Ankara is generally more secular than many Turkish cities but religion is deeply respected. Lower your voice near mosques during prayer times. Non-Muslims are welcome to visit mosques outside prayer times.
- Dress Code
- Smart-casual is appropriate for most situations. Shorts are acceptable in parks and shopping areas. Avoid very revealing clothing near mosques and in more conservative residential areas. The Çankaya and Kavaklıdere districts are notably more liberal in dress.
Useful phrases
A few words go a long way.
Merhaba
Hello
mehr-HA-ba
Teşekkür ederim
Thank you
teh-shek-KUR eh-deh-REEM
Lütfen
Please
LUT-fen
Evet / Hayır
Yes / No
EH-vet / ha-YIR
Ne kadar?
How much?
neh ka-DAR
Fatura lütfen
The bill, please
fa-TU-ra LUT-fen
Nerede?
Where is...?
neh-REH-deh
Yardım edin!
Help!
yar-DIM eh-DEEN
İngilizce biliyor musunuz?
Do you speak English?
een-gee-LEEZ-jeh bee-lee-YOR moo-soo-NOOZ
Taksimetre açın lütfen
Please start the meter (taxi)
tak-see-MET-reh ah-CHIN lut-fen
Afiyet olsun
Bon appétit / Enjoy your meal
ah-fee-YET ol-SOON
Çok güzel
Very beautiful
chok gu-ZEL
Religion & spirituality
Understanding faith in Ankara.
Primary: Islam (predominantly Sunni Muslim)
Practice Level: Moderate; Ankara is generally more secular than many Turkish cities. Religious observance is personal and widely respected.
Mosque Etiquette:
- Remove shoes before entering; shoe racks are provided at the entrance.
- Dress modestly: cover shoulders, upper arms, and legs. Women should cover their hair with a headscarf inside.
- Women and men have separate prayer areas; follow the guidance of the mosque attendants.
- Visit outside prayer times (salah) to avoid disturbing worshippers. Call to prayer (ezan) happens five times daily.
- Photography inside mosques is generally permitted if done respectfully and without flash during prayers.
- Loaner scarves and shoe bags are available at major mosques such as Kocatepe — these are free to use.