A casual midday tour through Malasaña neighbourhood exploring Madrid's cherished Sunday vermouth (vermut) culture — stopping at three traditional bodegas and one craft beer bar to taste house vermouth, artisan cava, and classic tapas pairings
Malasaña is Madrid's bohemian neighbourhood, a grid of early-twentieth-century apartment buildings north of Gran Vía that became the epicentre of the Movida Madrileña cultural explosion in the late 1970s and 1980s and has retained a creative, independent character ever since. It is also the neighbourhood where Madrid's cherished Sunday vermouth ritual — the vermut de los domingos — survives in its most authentic form, in bodegas that have changed little across five decades. This two-hour midday tour explores that tradition, stopping at three traditional bodegas and one craft bar to taste house vermouth, artisan cava, and the classic small tapas plates that accompany them. The vermut tradition in Spain predates the aperitivo culture of northern Italy, with barrel-aged house vermouths poured cold from the tap in bodegas that also sell wine, vinegar, and olive oil from large wooden casks. The first stop on this route is Bodega de la Ardosa on Calle Colón, a bodega established in 1892 whose interior retains its original tiled floors and marble counter. The Ardosa's house vermouth is among the most celebrated in Madrid — deep, bitter, and lightly sweet — served with a small dish of olives or a gilda (an anchovy-and-guindilla pepper skewer on a toothpick). Subsequent stops broaden the frame. A modern producer-focused bar demonstrates how craft vermouth makers across Spain are reviving regional botanicals and extending the category beyond the two or three dominant commercial brands. The guide explains the production process — white wine fortified with grape spirit, macerated with a proprietary blend of herbs, bitter orange peel, wormwood, and regional botanicals, then typically sweetened with caramel — and leads a structured comparison between a traditional Madrid house vermouth and a contemporary craft expression. Tapas pairings throughout the tour follow the vermouth canon: olives, gildas, boquerones en vinagre (white anchovies marinated in vinegar), and small portions of manchego or tortilla. The balance is entirely savoury across all four stops. Groups are typically six to ten participants, conducted in English. The route covers approximately one kilometre of Malasaña's flat street grid over two hours. The €45 price includes three vermouth tastings, craft cava, and accompanying tapas.
What is included
- 3 vermouth tastings, craft cava, accompanying tapas, guide explanations
Highlights
- vermouth culture history
- Bodega de la Ardosa (1892 bodega)
- artisan vermouths comparison
- traditional tapas pairings
Tips for visiting
- Sunday lunchtime departures from noon to 14:00 capture the full vermut de los domingos atmosphere, when Malasaña locals pack the neighbourhood's bodegas and terraces.
- The tour runs at midday — a normal breakfast beforehand is fine, but avoid a heavy morning meal to appreciate the tapas accompanying each tasting.
- Vermouth is a low-ABV aperitif at around 15 to 18 percent, but three tastings over two hours accumulate; pace water intake between stops accordingly.
- Bodega de la Ardosa does not welcome interior photography by tour groups; follow the guide's instructions before taking pictures inside historic bodegas.
- Comfortable flat shoes are recommended — Malasaña's streets are flat but can be slippery after rain.
Frequently asked questions
What is the vermut de los domingos tradition in Madrid?
The Sunday vermouth tradition centres on gathering at bodegas and bars from around noon to 15:00 for chilled house vermouth, small tapas, and conversation before the midday meal. It is a social ritual that has persisted largely unchanged for over a century in Madrid's older neighbourhoods.
Is the tour suitable for people who do not drink alcohol?
Vermouth tasting is the core activity and cannot be replaced with non-alcoholic alternatives at traditional bodegas. The tour is not well-suited to non-drinkers.
How much walking is involved?
The route covers approximately one kilometre across Malasaña's flat street grid, divided into three or four short walking segments of two to five minutes between each stop.
Are the included tapas suitable for vegetarians?
Standard tapas on this tour — olives, manchego, and tortilla — are vegetarian. The gilda and boquerones contain fish. Guests with fish allergies or strict vegetarian requirements should enquire about specific stop menus when booking.
Can visitors return to Bodega de la Ardosa independently?
Bodega de la Ardosa at Calle Colón 13, Malasaña, is open to the public during regular trading hours and can be visited without a guide. The tour context enriches the visit but is not required to enjoy the bar.