A dramatic, less-crowded trail along the steep northeastern coastline, cutting across near-vertical cliffsides high above the Atlantic with views toward Porto da Cruz and the Penha de Águia rock formation. The exposed sections and narrow path make it more demanding than the average levada walk.
PR12 begins at a trailhead near Feiteiras above Porto da Cruz, reached by car via the ER102; there is no bus service directly to the start, so a return by bus from the finish in Porto da Cruz village toward Funchal or Machico is the more common arrangement. Covering 7km one way with around 350m of net descent, the path follows contour lines cut into steep hillside terrain along Madeira's northeastern coast. The surface alternates between firm dirt path and sections of loose scree, with narrow cliff-side stretches that carry real exposure to drops toward the Atlantic below; shade is intermittent, coming mostly from scattered vegetation rather than continuous forest canopy. Landmarks include sweeping views toward Porto da Cruz and the distinctive Penha de Águia ("eagle rock") formation rising from the coastline, along with several stream crossings partway along the route. There is no clear intermediate turn-around point with facilities, so hikers uncomfortable with the exposed cliff sections should assess conditions early, as retreating from the trail's midpoint means retracing steep terrain rather than a shorter loop option. No water refill points exist along the route, so hikers should carry enough for the full 2.5-3 hour one-way walk, and there are no shelters given the trail's remote, cliff-side setting.
| Distance | 7km one way |
|---|---|
| Duration | 2.5–3h one way |
| Difficulty | hard |
| Trailhead | Car to the Feiteiras trailhead above Porto da Cruz; finishes near Porto da Cruz village, where buses run back toward Funchal and Machico |
| Best season | April–October, when the north-coast paths are driest and least slippery |
| Address | Trailhead near Feiteiras, ER102, 9225 Porto da Cruz, Madeira |
Trail facts
- Trail area
- Porto da Cruz
What to bring
- Hiking boots — narrow cliff-side sections require sure footing
- Trekking poles for the loose scree in places
- Water, as there are no refill points along the route
Weather through the year in Madeira
Best time Shoulder Worth avoiding
Average daytime temperature in °C. Figures are for Madeira.
Location
Trailhead near Feiteiras, ER102, 9225 Porto da Cruz, Madeira
32.7639, -16.8394 View on map
Highlights
- Near-vertical cliffside sections high above the Atlantic
- Views toward Porto da Cruz and the Penha de Águia rock formation
- One of Madeira's quieter, less-crowded coastal trails
- Contour path cut into steep northeastern hillside terrain
- Finishes near Porto da Cruz village with bus connections onward
Tips for visiting
- Use trekking poles on the sections of loose scree along the cliffside path
- Carry all the water needed for the trip, as there are no refill points en route
- Hike between April and October when the north-coast paths are driest and least slippery
- Check bus timetables from Porto da Cruz in advance for the return journey
- Avoid the trail in strong wind or heavy rain, given the exposed cliff-edge sections
When to visit
April–October, when the north-coast paths are driest and least slippery.
Accessibility
Not wheelchair- or stroller-accessible; the narrow, cliff-side path with loose scree sections is unsuitable for limited mobility.
Frequently asked questions
How long does the Vereda do Larano hike take?
The 7km one-way route typically takes 2.5 to 3 hours at a steady pace.
Is this trail more difficult than a typical levada walk?
Yes, the narrow cliffside sections and loose scree make it more demanding than most of Madeira's flatter levada trails.
Is public transport available at the trailhead?
Buses do not reach the Feiteiras starting point directly, but the finish in Porto da Cruz has bus connections toward Funchal and Machico.
When is the trail safest to hike?
Between April and October, when the north-coast paths are driest and least prone to slippery conditions.