Kjolle

Kjolle is chef Pia Leon's restaurant at Av. Pedro de Osma 301 in Barranco, Lima, Peru, occupying the same villa as Central, the flagship of her partner Virgilio Martinez. Where Central is organised around altitude and research, Kjolle is produce-led and lighter in style, with a menu that puts vegetables, tubers, grains, herbs and Amazon ingredients at the centre of the plate and treats fish as a seasonal companion rather than the focus. Leon, who previously led the kitchen at Central, opened Kjolle as a place for her own voice, and the restaurant has since earned a place among the leading restaurants of Latin America. The tasting menu changes with the harvest and with the ingredients gathered by the Mater research team, and courses often feature native potatoes, corn varieties, Andean grains and Amazon fruits and roots in unfamiliar combinations. Seasonal fish courses provide contrast, and desserts follow the same ingredient-first logic. The dining room is brighter and more informal than the hushed room next door, with a garden atmosphere and a relaxed rhythm to service; smart-casual clothing is appropriate. The drinks list draws on Peruvian and international wines and non-alcoholic pairings that use infusions and ferments. Prices are roughly S/ 400 to 600 per person, which makes Kjolle noticeably more approachable than Central while still offering a full tasting-menu experience. Reservations are made at kjolle.com, and although demand is lower than for its neighbour, advance booking is still needed, particularly for dinner. The restaurant serves dinner and some lunches and is typically closed on Sundays, so visitors should check the website for current hours. Because the menu is set, dietary restrictions should be mentioned when booking. Barranco is a bohemian seaside district of galleries, bars and old mansions, and Kjolle is a comfortable choice for visitors who want the Central experience in a more relaxed, plant-focused form.