Chouara Tannery

Chouara Tannery lies at Derb Chouara in Fès el-Bali, the old medina of Fès in Morocco, and is among the oldest tanneries in the world still operating with traditional methods. Its origins are usually dated to around the 11th century, in the early centuries of Fès as a commercial and craft centre. The site consists of a large open-air quarter of round stone vats set side by side, and it is the most visited of the three main tanneries in the medina. Workers soak hides in the vats, which contain lime, pigeon droppings and other natural agents for softening and removing hair, then move them to vats of natural dyes. Traditional colours come from plants and minerals such as poppy for red, indigo for blue, henna for orange and saffron or turmeric for yellow, while mint leaves are commonly handed to visitors to counter the strong smell. The work is done by hand, with men standing in the vats, and the leather is then dried on rooftops before being sold as bags, slippers, jackets and the famous Moroccan poufs. Visitors view the tannery from the terraces of the surrounding leather shops, which offer an elevated view over the colourful vats. Access to these terraces is typically free, although shopkeepers expect visitors to look at their goods, and a small tip to a guide or shop assistant of about 20 to 50 MAD is customary. Over the centuries the tannery has been modernised in some respects, including better water management and worker conditions, but the basic process remains medieval in character. It sits inside the UNESCO-listed medina and remains a working industrial site rather than a museum, so visits are best made in the morning when activity is at its peak.