Real de Catorce

Real de Catorce is a former silver-mining boomtown turned semi-ghost town high in the Sierra de Catorce, reached by driving through the roughly 2.3-kilometer Ogarrio tunnel that pierces the mountain. Once home to tens of thousands of residents at its 19th-century peak, the town today has cobblestone streets lined with ruined mansions, an active cockfighting arena turned cultural venue, and the Parroquia de la Purísima Concepción, a pilgrimage church associated with San Francisco de Asís that draws visitors seeking miracles. Sitting above 2,700 meters, the town also serves as a gateway to the surrounding Wirikuta desert, a sacred pilgrimage landscape for the Wixárika (Huichol) people. A worthwhile visit spans 1 to 2 days, allowing time to walk the town, explore the church, ride a horse or jeep tour into the desert, and adjust to the altitude. The view from the hillside above town, looking down over the rooftops and church dome, is the classic photograph, while the desert beyond offers wide-open vistas best seen near sunrise or sunset. The town is calmest on weekdays outside major pilgrimage dates; the days around the Día de San Francisco in October bring large crowds of pilgrims and should be planned around rather than sought out casually. Because of the altitude and unpaved side roads, warm layers and sturdy footwear are worth packing even in the dry desert climate.