Becal and the Jipijapa Hat Caves

Becal, on the old Camino Real in the northeast corner of Campeche, is the center of Mexico's Panama-style jipijapa hat industry, and the defining feature of the craft here is where the weaving happens: in limestone caves and cellars dug beneath weavers' own houses, where the naturally damp, cool air keeps the jipi palm fiber pliable enough to be plaited into hats so fine and tightly woven they can be rolled up and passed through a finger ring without cracking. The finest grades, worked entirely by feel in near-darkness by experienced weavers, can take weeks to complete a single hat. Family workshops across town welcome visitors to descend into these caves and watch weavers at work, offering a direct, unmediated look at a craft that has been passed down through generations. The town plaza, marked by three oversized concrete sombreros, makes an easy landmark and starting point for finding workshops. A visit typically takes one to two hours, enough to see several workshops, watch the weaving process and browse finished hats ranging from simple everyday weaves to museum-quality pieces. Workshops welcome visitors year-round, though the town is busiest in the run-up to its annual hat fair each May.