Palapas on the San Felipe malecon

The palapas along the malecon at San Felipe are the defining meal of the northern Gulf coast of Baja California, a line of open-sided, palm-thatched seafood kitchens strung along Avenida Mar de Cortez with the Sea of Cortez a few metres beyond the sea wall. San Felipe is a fishing town first and a holiday town second, roughly two hours south of Mexicali across the desert, and the tidal range here is among the largest in the world, so the view from a table shifts through the day between water at the wall and hundreds of metres of exposed flats with pangas sitting on the sand. The food follows the boats. Shrimp tacos are the signature: Gulf shrimp battered and fried to order, folded into a corn tortilla and finished at a condiment bar of shredded cabbage, pico de gallo, crema, pickled onion and half a dozen salsas that diners assemble themselves. Almeja tatemada, the local chocolata clam laid on a grate over coals until it opens and dressed with butter, lime and chilli, is the other dish visitors are sent for. Beyond those come ceviche de sierra, fish tacos, shrimp cocktails served in tall glasses, whole grilled fish and cold Mexican beer or micheladas. Prices are among the lowest in the state, with tacos generally in the region of 40 to 80 pesos each and a substantial lunch for two rarely passing 400 pesos. The character of the malecon is entirely informal: plastic chairs, sea breeze, vendors, music from neighbouring stands, and a mixed crowd of Mexicali weekenders, retirees from the United States and fishing families. Most palapas open daily from around 9AM to 9PM, do not take reservations, and prefer cash in pesos. Shrimp season and the pleasant weather both fall between October and April; midsummer on this coast is brutally hot, and several stands reduce hours or close.