Hamamatsu Jiyaki Unagi Masa

Hamamatsu Jiyaki Unagi Masa sits a minute's walk from the south exit of JR Hamamatsu Station, in a city whose sandy Lake Hamana shallows have supported eel farming since the late 19th century. The kitchen follows the jiyaki method, splitting and grilling the eel directly over binchotan charcoal without an initial steaming step, which yields a firmer bite and a smokier crust than the Tokyo-style hitsumabushi found further north. The unaju, served in a lacquered box over vinegared rice, and the umezu unagi, finished with a tart plum glaze, are the two dishes regulars order first. The dining room is small and unfussy, with a mix of counter stools facing the grill and a handful of low tables, no dress code, and the low hum of the charcoal fire rather than music. Drinks lean toward Shizuoka sake and cold barley tea rather than an extensive wine list. Weeknight lunch service usually seats walk-ins within a short wait, but dinner tables, especially on weekends, are worth reserving a day or two ahead since the room holds only a limited number of covers.