Aoba Yokocho Oden Sakaeya

Aoba Yokocho Oden Sakaeya occupies a tiny counter stall in the Aoba Yokocho lanes on the west side of JR Shizuoka Station, a cluster of narrow post-war alleys that became the birthplace of Shizuoka's distinctive black oden, simmered in a broth darkened with soy and beef stock rather than the pale dashi used in most of Japan. The black hanpen skewer, made from the fish cake that is a local staple, and the beef tendon skewer are the two items diners are told to try first, and the dashi-powder-topped daikon shows off the local habit of dusting oden with dried fish powder and aonori seaweed. The counter seats only about eight people, packed tightly along a well-worn bar facing the simmering broth pot, with no tables, no music beyond conversation, and a smoky, convivial atmosphere typical of the yokocho lanes. Drinks run to beer, shochu, and sake rather than wine. Because seating is so limited, there can be a short wait during the evening peak, but the stall does not take reservations and operates strictly first-come, first-served.