Osteria da Codroma

Osteria da Codroma is a neighborhood trattoria on Fondamenta Briati in the Dorsoduro district of Venice, in the Veneto region of Italy, on a quiet canal in the western part of the sestiere, away from the San Marco and Rialto tourist route. It is popular with students from the nearby university area and with locals, who value its honest prices and big portions. The kitchen sticks to Venetian standards, with dishes built around cuttlefish ink, fried lagoon fish and sarde in saor, the sweet-and-sour sardines with onions, pine nuts and raisins that are a classic of the city's cooking. Signature dishes include gnocchi al nero di seppia, the fritto misto di pesce, a plate of mixed fried lagoon fish, and sarde in saor. Other regional dishes appear according to season. The dining room is plain and unfussy, with simple tables, a relaxed, friendly atmosphere and a moderate to lively noise level, especially when groups of students and neighbors fill the room. There is no dress code. The wine list is short and regional, featuring house wine by the carafe and glass, and beer is also available. Prices are mid-range and represent good value by Venetian standards, so a full meal with wine costs noticeably less than in the tourist areas. The osteria is open Tuesday to Sunday for lunch and dinner and closed Monday. Reservations are recommended, especially for dinner, because being off the main sightseeing streets it fills mostly with people who live in the area, and booking a day or two ahead is usually sufficient. The location is a pleasant walk from the Zattere waterfront, the Accademia galleries and the Ca' Foscari university area, and the quiet fondamenta outside is suitable for a stroll before or after the meal.