Osteria Agli Assassini

Osteria Agli Assassini is a small osteria on Rio Terra dei Assassini in the San Marco district of Venice, in the Veneto region of Italy, down a narrow calle near the Castello border and a few minutes from the Rialto and San Marco. The street name recalls the darker history of the neighborhood, and the osteria is housed in an old building said to date back to the fourteenth century. It is run in classic trattoria style, with a blackboard of daily specials in place of a fixed printed menu. The cooking is home-style Venetian, built around lagoon fish and whatever is seasonal at the Rialto market that morning. Signature dishes include risotto al nero di seppia, the cuttlefish ink risotto that regulars order, mixed fried lagoon fish and tiramisu. Other daily specials follow the market, and portions are generous. The room is plain and compact, with closely packed tables that fill with a mix of regulars and visitors, a friendly informal atmosphere and a moderate noise level that rises when full. There is no dress code. The wine list is regional, with house wine by the carafe and glass and a few bottles from the Veneto and Friuli. Prices are mid-range and fair for a location so close to the central tourist zones, so a full meal costs less than at a comparable restaurant in Piazza San Marco. The osteria is open Monday to Saturday, from late morning until mid-afternoon and again in the evening, and closed on Sunday. Reservations are recommended, because the room is small enough that turning up for dinner without booking is a gamble, especially on weekend evenings. Visitors should book a day or two ahead by phone. Its location off the main route makes it a useful alternative to the crowded restaurants around the Piazza.