Bologna — Food Capital of Italy

Bologna, the capital of Emilia-Romagna, lies about 150 km southwest of Venice and is reached by Frecciarossa or Frecciargento high-speed train from Santa Lucia to Bologna Centrale in roughly 55-70 minutes. Fares range from about EUR 15 to 35 each way when booked ahead, while the slower Regionale takes about two hours and costs around EUR 13. The city is the longest single rail trip among Venice's regular day trips, so an early departure is worthwhile, and the long walking day through the center makes the trip moderately demanding. The city is known as Italy's culinary capital, and ragù alla bolognese, tortellini and mortadella all originate in this region. It is also a serious historic city, with the country's oldest university and one of its largest preserved medieval centers. Piazza Maggiore and the Basilica di San Petronio form the core, the basilica being famous for an unfinished facade and a scale once planned to rival St. Peter's. Le Due Torri, the leaning Asinelli and Garisenda towers, are survivors of the roughly 180 that once stood, and Asinelli can be climbed for rooftop views. The Quadrilatero market district, a web of narrow streets with delis, butchers and produce stalls, is the best place to taste the city's food. The UNESCO-listed porticoes run for tens of kilometers and shelter walkers from sun and rain. A workable arc starts at Piazza Maggiore in the morning, climbs the Asinelli tower while it is cool, and spends midday in the Quadrilatero, treating lunch as a series of tastings. The afternoon is for a slow walk under the porticoes and perhaps a visit to a university quarter before an evening train back. Bologna is good year round, but July and August are hot, and the porticoes offer only partial relief. Autumn is a season for truffles and mushrooms, and winter is mild and uncrowded. Food is the main budget item, at roughly EUR 40-60 for tastings and a proper meal.