Trattoria Corte Sconta

Trattoria Corte Sconta is a celebrated seafood trattoria in Venice's Castello district, hidden down the Calle del Pestrin near the Arsenale and reached, true to its name — 'the hidden courtyard' — through an unassuming entrance that opens onto a vine-shaded internal courtyard. That courtyard, leafy and tranquil in warm weather, is one of the most charming dining settings in the city and a large part of the trattoria's enduring appeal. For decades Corte Sconta has been a favourite of food critics and in-the-know visitors for its exquisite Adriatic and lagoon seafood, served in the traditional Venetian manner as a long succession of small dishes. Meals often begin with an extended antipasto misto di mare of raw and lightly cooked seafood — schie (tiny lagoon shrimp), moeche in season, marinated fish, scallops and more — before moving to house-made pasta such as tagliolini with shellfish and grilled or roasted catch. The cooking is precise and deeply seasonal, expressing Venetian tradition at a high level. The atmosphere is warm and convivial rather than formal, with closely set tables, a buzz of conversation and attentive service; smart-casual dress suits it. The wine list favours Veneto and Friuli whites that flatter the seafood. Prices sit in the upper-middle to high range, reflecting the quality. Because the trattoria is small, hidden and highly regarded, reservations are strongly recommended, often several days ahead, especially for the courtyard in fine weather. Corte Sconta typically closes on Sundays and Mondays. For travellers seeking the pinnacle of traditional Venetian seafood in a secret-garden setting, it is one of the city's essential addresses.