Trattoria del Conero

Trattoria del Conero sits in Sirolo, the pretty cliff-top village on the Riviera del Conero, the dramatic stretch of coast where Monte Conero plunges into the Adriatic south of Ancona. The kitchen is devoted to the seafood of this coastline, above all moscioli di Portonovo, the wild mussels gathered from the Conero rocks and protected as a Slow Food Presidium, served both on their own and tossed through spaghetti. The menu also features the local brodetto, raw and grilled Adriatic fish, and pasta dressed with the day's catch, all reflecting the abundance of the protected marine area offshore. Many tables enjoy views over the sea and the white cliffs that define the riviera, making it a memorable setting for a long lunch or dinner. The cooking favours freshness and simplicity, letting the quality of the fish speak, and prices reflect the prized ingredients without straying into fine-dining territory. The wine list focuses on Marche whites such as Verdicchio that complement the seafood. Sirolo is reached by car or seasonal bus from Ancona, and parking can be limited in summer. Independent travellers should reserve for sea-view tables and in high season.