Civate

Civate is a small village in the hills of Lecco Province, eastern Lombardy, at the foot of Monte Cornizzolo near the southern tip of the lake of Annone. Few visitors stop in the village itself; the reward lies above it, reached by a steep footpath of around 40 minutes to an hour that climbs through chestnut woods to the Basilica di San Pietro al Monte, an austere 11th-century Romanesque church perched on the mountainside at about 660 metres. Inside, the basilica preserves some of the most important Romanesque frescoes and carved stucco in Italy: a great stucco ciborium, a vivid cycle depicting the heavenly Jerusalem and the battle of Saint Michael against the dragon, and a crypt with further painted decoration, all remarkably intact and almost entirely free of crowds. The walk is the experience as much as the destination, passing the small oratory of San Benedetto and opening to views over the Brianza lakes and plain. Visitors should plan a half-day: the round trip on foot from the village takes two to three hours plus time at the church, which is staffed by volunteers and generally open at weekends, so checking opening days in advance is essential. Sturdy shoes and water are needed for the rocky, sometimes steep trail. The basilica's hillside terrace is the finest vantage point, looking south over the lakes, and morning light suits both the climb and the frescoes. There is no admission charge, though donations support the upkeep. For walkers and lovers of medieval art willing to make the effort, Civate offers a rare combination of mountain scenery and a near-pristine Romanesque interior far from the tourist circuit of the nearby lakes.