Trastevere Neighborhood

Trastevere is Rome's most atmospheric historic quarter, occupying the west bank of the Tiber below the Janiculum Hill, its name meaning literally 'across the Tiber'. A maze of narrow cobbled lanes winds between ochre and terracotta houses draped in ivy and strung with washing, opening without warning onto small squares and the sound of fountains. Once a working-class district of artisans and river workers, Trastevere has kept much of that village character even as it has become one of the city's liveliest dining and nightlife areas. The heart of the neighbourhood is the Piazza di Santa Maria in Trastevere, dominated by the Basilica di Santa Maria in Trastevere, one of the oldest churches in Rome, whose 12th-century golden mosaics on the façade and in the apse glow when lit. Other highlights for wandering visitors include the church of Santa Cecilia with its hidden frescoes, the steep climb up to the Janiculum terrace for one of the finest panoramas over the whole city, and the bustling Sunday flea market at nearby Porta Portese. Trastevere is best experienced on foot and without a fixed plan, simply getting lost among the lanes; a half-day or evening of two to three hours suits it well. The quarter truly comes alive in the late afternoon and evening, when its trattorias, wine bars and gelaterias fill and tables spill into the streets, so booking dinner at a well-known trattoria in advance is wise. Authentic Roman dishes such as cacio e pepe and supplì are local specialities. Mornings are quiet and good for unhurried photographs of the empty lanes, while weekend nights can be crowded and noisy. Free to explore and just a short walk from the centre across the river, Trastevere offers the most romantic and characterful slice of everyday Rome.