Sperlonga & Tiberius' Grotto

Sperlonga is one of the most beautiful seaside towns on the southern Lazio coast, a cascade of whitewashed houses tumbling down a rocky promontory between two long sweeps of golden sand, partway between Rome and Naples. The medieval old town crowns the headland: a maze of narrow, car-free lanes, arches, steep whitewashed staircases and little squares opening suddenly onto dazzling views of the Tyrrhenian Sea. Visitors climb among the boutiques, gelaterias and seafood trattorias before descending to the beaches that flank the rock, where the shallow, clear water and fine sand draw sun-seekers all summer. Just south of the town lies Sperlonga's other treasure, and the source of its name, from the Latin spelunca, meaning cave. Here Emperor Tiberius built a luxurious seaside villa around a great natural sea-grotto, which he transformed into a spectacular open-air banqueting hall, complete with a circular dining island and fish pools fed by the sea. The grotto was decorated with colossal marble sculpture groups depicting the adventures of Odysseus, shattered fragments of which were rediscovered in 1957 and painstakingly reassembled. They are now displayed in the excellent on-site National Archaeological Museum beside the grotto, whose dramatic Blinding of Polyphemus and Scylla groups are among the finest Hellenistic-style sculptures in Italy. A combined visit to the museum and grotto takes around two hours; with a swim and a wander through town, plan a half to full day. The museum charges a small entry fee, while the beaches and old town are free. The town is reached by car or by train to Fondi-Sperlonga station plus a bus. It is busiest at the height of summer; late spring and early autumn are quieter and ideal. As a rare combination of stunning beach, hill-town charm and major Roman archaeology, Sperlonga is a standout of the Lazio coast.