Trattoria da Lino

Trattoria da Lino at Via Andrea Costa 8 in Cesenatico, Emilia-Romagna, is a straightforward, reliable seafood trattoria serving the Adriatic catch at honest prices in a coastal town that has been part of the Romagna fishing tradition for centuries. Cesenatico is distinct from Rimini in its scale and character—quieter, more functional, with a working fishing port designed by Leonardo da Vinci—and da Lino reflects this: it is a restaurant for people who eat fish regularly rather than occasionally, without the theatrics of a tourist-facing seafood operation. The kitchen follows the catch: fritto misto dell'Adriatico—a mixed deep-fried selection of squid rings, small shrimp, sardines, and soft-shell crab—is the essential starter and arrives crisp, dry, and at the precise temperature that distinguishes excellent fritto from mediocre. Spaghetti alle vongole, the benchmark Adriatic pasta of clams in white wine and garlic, is made with locally dug vongole verace rather than farmed clams, a distinction immediately apparent in flavour. Branzino al sale (sea bass baked in a salt crust) is the slow-cooking secondo that closes the meal properly. The room is modest and functional; the service is warm in the Italian coastal manner, treating regulars as regulars and newcomers as future regulars. Reservations are advisable for dinner and strongly recommended for weekend lunch.