Trattoria Da Zi Carmela, Procida

Trattoria Da Zi Carmela is the most celebrated restaurant on the island of Procida, located in the fishing village of Marina Corricella — the island's most visually arresting harbour, a densely stacked array of pastel-coloured fishing houses that has appeared in numerous films including The Talented Mr. Ripley and Il Postino. The trattoria is family-run in the most straightforward sense: a modest dining room and terrace directly on the waterfront, with fishing boats moored just below, a menu that changes daily based on the catch brought in that morning, and a kitchen that operates with the confidence of generations of seafood cooking. The linguine alle vongole procidane, made with the small, intensely flavoured local clams gathered from the seabed around the island, is the signature first course and regarded as one of the finest pasta dishes in the Gulf of Naples. Totani alla griglia — flying squid grilled simply with oil and lemon — is another highlight, showcasing the quality of the local seafood at its most unadorned. The octopus, slow-cooked in its own juices or prepared in a tomato-based stew, is a third preparation that regulars make the trip for. Procida is less visited than Capri and Ischia, and Da Zi Carmela retains a local character difficult to find on the more tourist-heavy islands. The prices are very fair by the standards of the Gulf of Naples.