Azura

Azura is a family-run institution at Ha-Eshkol Street 4 inside the Mahane Yehuda Market in West Jerusalem, Israel, serving the Iraqi-Kurdish and Sephardic home cooking that generations of Jerusalem families grew up on. Rather than a chef-led concept, the restaurant is known for the cooking of the family kitchen, produced in a large open kitchen where pots of stew and stuffed vegetables simmer in view of the counter. The menu is built around slow-cooked dishes: mahshi, vegetables such as peppers, zucchini and vine leaves stuffed with seasoned rice and meat; kubbeh soup, with semolina dumplings in a tangy broth; and slow-cooked beef stew served over rice. Many dishes sell out as the day goes on, which is why locals arrive early. The dining room is small, informal and busy, with shared tables, plastic plates and a friendly, noisy lunchtime crowd; there is no dress code. The venue is not a wine destination, and drinks are simple, with soft drinks, water and the occasional beer typical of the market. Prices are moderate ($$) and portions generous, which makes the restaurant a favourite for travellers seeking a filling, authentic lunch. It carries a rating of around 4.5. Azura does not take bookings for lunch, so reservation difficulty is replaced by queue management: arriving before 12:00PM usually secures a seat and the full menu. Opening hours are roughly 11:00AM to 6:00PM Sunday to Thursday, until mid-afternoon on Friday, and closed on Saturday, so it works best as a weekday or Friday lunch stop. Phone enquiries can go to +972 2-623-5204. Visitors combining the market with other tastings often treat Azura as the sit-down anchor of the visit.