Damascus Gate and the Muslim Quarter Souk

Damascus Gate is the largest and most ornate entrance to Jerusalem's Old City, Israel, built in 1537 under the Ottoman sultan Suleiman the Magnificent. Its crenellated towers and carved arch open on the north side of the walls, facing the road to Nablus and Damascus, and an excavated Roman plaza lies beneath the staircase, showing that a gate stood here since antiquity. The plaza outside is a gathering place where vendors sell fruit, sesame bread and sweets, and where the light rail stop delivers many visitors. Inside the gate, Al-Wad Road runs south through the heart of the Muslim Quarter, lined with shops, spice sellers, coffee roasters, sweets shops, bakeries and butchers. The lanes smell of cardamom coffee, za'atar, roasting nuts and fresh bread, and stalls overflow with brass lanterns, textiles, ceramics and souvenirs. Many visitors stop for knafeh, the warm cheese pastry soaked in syrup, as well as halva, dates and Arabic coffee. Side alleys lead to Ottoman hammams, caravanserais and small mosques, and the covered sections keep the heat off in summer. Photographers find colour and movement at every turn, but should ask before photographing individuals. Bargaining is expected on souvenirs, though food prices are generally fixed, and politeness goes a long way. Crowds grow through the morning, and midday on Fridays can be quiet in some stretches because many shops close for prayers. Visitors should keep valuables in a front bag, since pickpockets operate on busy stretches. A typical visit takes one to two hours, and the route can continue toward the Via Dolorosa and the Church of the Holy Sepulchre. Morning visits are calmer and cooler, and the souk is open daily except for the Friday midday closures. Modest clothing helps visitors blend in and respect local customs. The area is free to enter at any time, and light rail provides the easiest access.