Tehran, Iran's sprawling capital at the foot of the Alborz Mountains, pairs Qajar-era palaces and a vast historic bazaar with modern towers, mountain gondolas, and a genuine after-dark cafe culture built around teahouses rather than bars.
Cultural orientation
Essential context for travellers.
Hijab is a legal requirement for all women in Iran, including foreign tourists, from the moment of arrival in public spaces — a headscarf and loose-fitting clothing covering the arms and legs are required at airports, in the street, and in all public buildings.
Alcohol is completely illegal in Iran — production, sale, transport, purchase and consumption are all criminal offenses, and bringing any alcohol into the country through customs is treated as seriously as narcotics.
Tehran is a huge, modern city of over 9 million people, and Tehranis are generally warm and curious toward foreign visitors; being invited for tea or a meal by a stranger is common and can be accepted in most everyday situations.
Persian (Farsi) is the official language; English is spoken by many younger, educated Tehranis and in tourist-facing businesses, but is not widespread among the general population, especially older residents and outside central districts.
Friday is the weekend day in Iran (the week runs Saturday to Wednesday as standard working days, with Thursday often a half-day), so many businesses, bazaars and government offices are closed or reduced on Fridays.
Do's and don'ts
Quick guide to local norms.
Do
- Dress modestly at all times in public — women should wear a headscarf and a long, loose top or coat (manteau) with trousers; men should avoid shorts and sleeveless shirts in most public settings.
- Cover up further and, for women, wear a full-length chador where required when visiting shrines and mosques, such as Imamzadeh Saleh — chadors are usually provided free at the entrance.
- Greet people with a handshake (same-gender) or a polite nod; wait to see whether a person of the opposite gender offers a hand before extending one, since some conservative Iranians avoid physical contact between unrelated men and women.
- Carry cash in Iranian Rial or Toman — foreign bank cards and payment apps do not work in Iran due to international sanctions, so budget in advance and exchange money at official exchange offices.
- Remove shoes when entering someone's home, and accept tea or fruit if offered — hospitality (ta'arof) is a deeply ingrained Iranian custom and refusing outright can seem impolite; a polite, brief decline is usually understood.
- Ask permission before photographing people, and never photograph government buildings, military installations, airports or checkpoints, which is illegal and can result in confiscation of equipment or detention.
Don't
- Do not bring any alcohol into Iran or attempt to buy, sell or consume it while in the country — the legal penalties, including fines, lashings or imprisonment, are severe and strictly enforced.
- Do not appear in public without a headscarf if you are a woman, even though enforcement has become inconsistent in Tehran in recent years — the underlying law has not changed and visible rule-breaking can still draw attention from authorities.
- Do not photograph sensitive infrastructure, including government buildings, military sites, airports, bridges over embassies, or police and security personnel.
- Do not discuss Iranian politics, the government, or sensitive regional issues casually with people you have just met — many Iranians are candid in private but political conversation in public with strangers can put both parties at risk.
- Do not display affection publicly between unmarried couples — hand-holding between spouses is generally tolerated, but public displays of affection beyond that are frowned upon and can occasionally draw attention from religious police.
- Do not rely on international debit or credit cards for payment anywhere in Iran — due to sanctions, no foreign card network functions in the country, and running out of cash can leave travelers stranded.
Local customs
Traditions and practices you'll encounter.
Ta'arof
Ta'arof is the elaborate Iranian system of polite ritual insistence and modesty — offering something repeatedly before it is accepted, or a shopkeeper initially waving away payment before naming a price. Visitors are not expected to master it, but understanding that an initial refusal is often just politeness helps avoid confusion, particularly with taxi fares and small purchases.
Nowruz (Persian New Year)
Nowruz, the Persian New Year on the spring equinox (around March 20-21), is Iran's most important holiday. Tehran empties out as residents travel to see family, and many businesses close for one to two weeks — a striking time to see Tehran quiet, but a poor time to rely on shops and offices being open.
Friday prayers and the weekend
Friday is the primary day of rest and communal prayer in Iran. Major mosques hold Friday prayer gatherings, and many businesses, government offices and some museums operate on reduced hours or are closed entirely.
Mourning days (Ashura and Tasua)
During Muharram, particularly Ashura and the days around it, Tehran observes solemn public mourning for the death of Imam Hussein, with processions, black flags and altered opening hours at many sites, including the closure of Azadi Tower on designated Shahadat days.
Carpet and craft tradition
Persian carpets, miniature painting, calligraphy and metalwork remain central to Iranian cultural identity and are proudly displayed in homes and museums such as the Carpet Museum of Iran; asking about a carpet's origin or weaving technique is a welcomed conversation topic.
Etiquette by setting
How to navigate everyday situations.
- Greetings
- A right-hand handshake is standard between people of the same gender; between men and women, wait for the other person to initiate physical contact, and a hand over the heart with a slight nod is a safe, respectful alternative. Use titles such as 'Agha' (Mr.) or 'Khanom' (Ms./Mrs.) with a surname when addressing people formally.
- Dining
- Meals are often shared family-style; wait to be told where to sit, and expect food to be offered generously and repeatedly as part of ta'arof — a polite decline usually needs to be repeated once or twice before it is accepted as sincere.
- Dress
- Women must wear a headscarf and loose clothing covering the arms and legs in all public places; men should avoid shorts and sleeveless tops. Full-length chadors are required at some shrines and are provided free at the entrance.
- Gifts
- Bringing a small gift such as sweets or fruit when visiting an Iranian home is appreciated. Gifts are sometimes initially refused as part of ta'arof before being accepted — offer once more if this happens.
- Business
- Business meetings typically begin with tea and unhurried small talk before turning to the topic at hand; rushing straight to business can come across as abrupt. Friday and public holidays are not workdays.
- Tipping
- Tipping is not obligatory but is appreciated: roughly 5-10% at nicer restaurants, rounding up taxi fares, and small cash amounts for porters or tour guides. Tips are given in cash, since card payment is unavailable to foreign visitors.
Useful phrases
A few words go a long way.
سلام (Salaam)
Hello
sah-LAAM
متشکرم (Motashakkeram)
Thank you
mo-ta-sha-KE-ram
لطفا (Lotfan)
Please
lot-FAN
بله / نه (Bale / Na)
Yes / No
ba-LEH / NAH
ببخشید (Bebakhshid)
Excuse me / Sorry
beh-bakh-SHEED
چند است؟ (Chand ast?)
How much does it cost?
CHAND ast
کجاست...؟ (Kojast...?)
Where is...?
ko-JAST
خداحافظ (Khodahafez)
Goodbye
kho-da-HA-fez
Religion & spirituality
Understanding faith in Tehran.
Main: Shia Islam (specifically Twelver Shia Islam) is the official state religion and the faith of the large majority of Tehran's population; it shapes the civic calendar, public architecture and daily rhythms of the city, from the call to prayer to the observance of major religious mourning periods.
Sites: Imamzadeh Saleh at Tajrish Square is Tehran's most visited Shia shrine. Other important religious sites include the Islamic Revolution and Holy Defense Museum's commemorative spaces and numerous neighborhood mosques throughout the city. Iran also recognizes Zoroastrianism, Armenian and Assyrian Christianity, and Judaism as constitutionally protected minority religions, each with a small number of active places of worship in Tehran, including historic Armenian churches in the city.
Holy Days: Ramadan (a lunar month of daytime fasting observed by most Muslims) affects restaurant hours and public eating during daylight; Eid al-Fitr and Eid al-Adha are major holidays. Ashura and Tasua, commemorating the death of Imam Hussein during Muharram, bring solemn public processions and altered hours at many attractions. Nowruz (Persian New Year, not a religious holiday but tied to the civic calendar) is the single largest holiday period in Tehran.
Conversations: Religion is generally approached respectfully and openly in conversation, and many Tehranis are happy to explain local practices to curious visitors. Visitors should dress and behave respectfully at all religious sites regardless of their own beliefs, and avoid casual criticism of religious practice or the government's religious policies in public settings.