Sundarbans Mangrove Creeks

The Sundarbans Tiger Reserve, reached from Sajnekhali in Gosaba, South 24 Parganas, West Bengal, is a vast tidal delta of mangrove forest crossed by narrow creeks. Photography is done almost entirely from a boat, and the frame is a wall of mangrove roots and foliage on either bank, with muddy shores exposed at low tide. Wildlife subjects include kingfishers, herons and other waterbirds, spotted deer, monitor lizards, estuarine crocodiles and, rarely, tiger tracks on the mud. A tiger sighting is uncommon and should not be expected. Light is best in the early morning and late afternoon, when low sun lights the banks and animals are most active; midday is hot, harsh and quiet. The best season is October to March, with cooler weather and clearer skies; the monsoon is not suitable for visits. Tides matter: low tide exposes the mud banks where animals come to feed, so it is worth planning the boat timing around the tide table. The boats are small and shared, so tripod space is limited; a monopod or beanbag on the boat rail works better, and shooting from the roof of the boat gives the best angles. Entry to the reserve requires permits arranged through the forest department or an authorised tour operator, with fees for entry, boats and guides, and visitors must be accompanied by a forest guard. Visitors cannot leave the boat in most areas, and drone use is not permitted in the reserve. A 100-400mm telephoto is the most useful lens, with binoculars for spotting, and a dry bag and lens hood protect gear from spray and sun. Facilities are limited, so water and snacks should be carried. Boat boarding involves uneven jetties.