Paradosiako, Santorini

Paradosiako — meaning 'traditional' in Greek — is exactly what its name promises: an unaffected, family-run restaurant in Oia village serving honest Greek home cooking at prices that are almost anomalously low for one of the world's most famous and expensive tourism destinations. The kitchen cooks to order from a compact daily menu structured around that morning's market visit: a grilled fish of the day, the Santorini fava soup made from the island's unique yellow split peas grown in volcanic soil, tomato keftedes (the island's famous tomato fritters) served with yogurt, and whatever salad and greens are freshest. The dining room is simple and bright, with a handful of tables on a narrow lane that catches the sea breeze but not the view — visitors in Oia for the caldera view will find no dramatic panorama here, and that is entirely the point. The restaurant is for people who have seen the sunset, eaten the overpriced caldera dinners, and learned that what they really want is a generous plate of fava with good bread and a carafe of Assyrtiko at a fair price. Reservations are not typically needed, and walk-ins are almost always accommodated. The daily specials are posted on a chalkboard at the entrance.