Sardelles

Sardelles is a seafood mezedopoleio in the Metaxourgeio neighbourhood that achieves an unusual combination: creative, well-executed small seafood plates at genuinely accessible prices, in a thoughtfully designed space that avoids both the tourist trap and the pretentious bistro register. The restaurant takes its name from the sardine — the most democratic of Greek fish — and the menu builds from that ethos of finding extraordinary quality in ordinary ingredients. The anchovy ceviche, cured in lemon juice and olive oil and dressed with a hint of chilli and parsley, is one of the finest treatments of this overlooked fish available in Athens. Smoked mackerel spread served with warm bread is similarly elevated — smoky, rich, and complex in a way that belies the fish's humble status. Prawn saganaki, the prawns baked in tomato sauce with feta and herbs, is the shared starter that most tables order and that draws people back. The kitchen also offers whole fish dishes and seasonal specials that extend the menu beyond mezedes into more substantial eating. The dining room has been designed with care: exposed brick, warm lighting, and a level of finish that sits well above a neighbourhood taverna without crossing into the self-conscious. Metaxourgeio as a neighbourhood has undergone significant cultural renewal in recent years, and Sardelles is one of the restaurants that arrived alongside and contributed to that shift. The wine list features Greek small producers with an emphasis on whites and natural wines that suit the seafood focus.