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Restaurants · Île-de-France, Île-de-France

Le Comptoir du Relais

  • CuisineModern French Bistro
  • CategoryBistro / Modern French
  • VibeRelaxed, neighbourhood, unpretentious
  • Rating★ 4.5
  • Price€€€ — lunch €28 set menu; dinner à la carte €45–€65 (~$30 / ~$49–$71)

Le Comptoir du Relais is the restaurant that helped launch the bistronomy movement. Chef Yves Camdeborde, who trained under Christian Constant at the Crillon, opened the address at the Carrefour de l'Odéon in the 6th arrondissement and proved that cooking of genuine technical ambition could be served at bistro prices in an informal setting.

Le Comptoir du Relais is the restaurant that helped launch the bistronomy movement. Chef Yves Camdeborde, who trained under Christian Constant at the Crillon, opened the address at the Carrefour de l'Odéon in the 6th arrondissement and proved that cooking of genuine technical ambition could be served at bistro prices in an informal setting. Today the restaurant operates a dual format: on weekdays a traditional bistro formula offers an affordable three-course lunch, while weekday evenings shift to a more considered reservation-driven tasting menu. On weekends the restaurant converts entirely to a brasserie walk-in operation, turning tables quickly at an animated pace. The weekday lunch set menu at around €28 is one of the city's great dining values: dishes such as cochon de lait rôti, a generous salade lyonnaise, and millefeuille draw from the canon of French regional cooking and update it with modern technique. The setting is a covered terrace fronting the Carrefour de l'Odéon — one of the most agreeable terrace positions in Saint-Germain-des-Prés — alongside an adjoining dining room. The wine list features natural producers and Camdeborde's own selections. The restaurant operates as part of the Relais Saint-Germain hotel, a small independent property with considerable character; staying here gives priority access to otherwise difficult dinner reservations. The surrounding neighbourhood has become one of Paris's best concentrations of independent serious eating, with several other notable addresses within a short walk.

Signature dishes

  • Cochon de lait rôti
  • Salade Lyonnaise
  • Millefeuille maison

Good to know

Known for
Yves Camdeborde's influential neo-bistro; credited with starting the bistronomy movement; weekday dinner booking only, weekend walk-in lunch
Hours
Daily 12:00–15:00; Mon–Fri 20:00–23:30; Sat–Sun 12:00–23:30
Reservations
Weekday dinner only; weekends walk-in only

Location

9 Carrefour de l'Odéon, 75006 Paris, France

48.8490, 2.3330 View on map

Highlights

  • Yves Camdeborde's bistronomy landmark; widely credited with launching the movement that transformed Paris dining
  • Weekday lunch set menu (€28) is among Paris's best-value serious meals
  • Dual format: casual walk-in brasserie at weekends; reservation-only tasting menu on weekday evenings
  • Covered terrace at Carrefour de l'Odéon; one of the most pleasant terrace positions in Saint-Germain

Tips for visiting

  • Weekday dinner requires reservations; weekends are walk-in only — arrive before 12:00 or 19:30 to minimise waiting
  • The weekday lunch set menu (€28) is the strongest value; it represents Camdeborde's cooking at an accessible price
  • Weekend walk-in service is fast-paced and communal; not suited to leisurely special occasions
  • Guests staying at the adjacent Relais Saint-Germain hotel receive priority access to weekday dinner reservations
  • Ask for terrace seating when booking — the Carrefour de l'Odéon tables are among the best in the neighbourhood

Accessibility

The terrace and ground-floor dining room are at pavement level with no steps at the main entrance. The space becomes crowded, particularly at weekends. Wheelchair access is feasible; contacting the restaurant in advance is advisable to arrange appropriate seating.

Frequently asked questions

When does Le Comptoir require reservations?

Weekday dinner requires a reservation and operates a tasting menu format. Weekend lunch and dinner are walk-in only; no reservations are accepted on weekends.

Who is Yves Camdeborde?

Camdeborde is the chef credited with catalysing Paris's bistronomy movement — bringing fine-dining-quality cooking to relaxed bistro settings at affordable prices. He trained under Christian Constant at the Hôtel de Crillon.

Is the weekend walk-in service the same quality as weekday dinner?

The weekend brasserie service is simpler and faster-paced than the weekday tasting menu. The cooking is honest and accomplished but does not reach the same level of elaboration as the evening reservation format.

What is the connection to the Relais Saint-Germain hotel?

Le Comptoir operates as part of the Relais Saint-Germain, a small independent hotel at the same address. Hotel guests benefit from priority access to the otherwise hard-to-book weekday dinner.