Chez Omar

Chez Omar occupies an old Parisian bistro shell on Rue de Bretagne — zinc bar, mirrored walls, bentwood chairs, brass coat hooks — that has changed little since it began serving Algerian and Moroccan couscous decades ago, becoming one of the Marais's most durable institutions in the process. The restaurant took over what was originally a classic French bistro and kept the room almost entirely intact, which gives Chez Omar the unusual character of eating North African food inside an unmistakably Parisian belle-époque interior. The couscous itself is the reason people return: light, well-steamed semolina served alongside a deeply flavoured vegetable broth and a choice of lamb, merguez sausage, chicken, or a vegetarian version loaded with chickpeas and root vegetables. Portions are large and the kitchen has a reputation for consistency that has held for years, drawing a loyal following from the surrounding Haut Marais fashion and design studios alongside longtime residents of the 3rd arrondissement. No reservations are accepted under any circumstances, and the restaurant's popularity means a queue routinely forms along the zinc bar and out onto the pavement, particularly at dinner on weekends; regulars arrive right at opening or accept a wait with a drink at the bar. Service is brisk rather than polished, in keeping with the restaurant's identity as a neighbourhood institution rather than a destination fine-dining room, and the atmosphere — loud, warm, unpretentious — is as much the appeal as the food. Tagines, grilled meats, and merguez sandwiches round out a menu that otherwise stays tightly focused on doing a small number of dishes very well.