Restaurant Aromatic, Angers

Restaurant Aromatic is a modern bistro on the Boulevard Ayrault in Angers, a city of around 150,000 in the Maine-et-Loire department of the Pays de la Loire. The restaurant's approach is to take the Loire Valley's exceptional agricultural larder and apply contemporary technique and seasonal thinking to produce a menu that feels current without abandoning the roots of the regional kitchen. Rillettes maison — the slow-cooked pork paste that is the signature food of the Loire Valley — are made in-house and served as a starter; the version here draws on quality local pork with a seasoning that is more subtly spiced than traditional recipes. Pintade fermière aux champignons, a braised guinea fowl (pintade) from a local farm accompanied by seasonal mushrooms, is the kitchen's most accomplished main course: the long, slow cooking extracts deep flavour from what is typically a leaner bird than chicken. Tarte aux pommes normande — apple tart enriched with almond cream — brings the meal to a close with the orchard sweetness that defines dessert across the Loire and Normandy regions. The dining room on the Boulevard Ayrault is comfortable and mid-sized, with a contemporary aesthetic that suits the neighbourhood's professional and academic character. The wine list is focused on Loire appellations at prices suited to regular dining.