Txistu, Saint-Jean-de-Luz

Txistu is a pintxos and tapas bar in the pedestrianized heart of Saint-Jean-de-Luz, a fishing town on the Basque coast of Nouvelle Aquitaine just twelve kilometres north of the Spanish border. The bar is named for the traditional Basque flute and it functions exactly as a pintxos bar should: counter laden with small bites from opening, glasses of cold Txakoli poured continuously, and a pre-dinner ritual of moving from bar to bar with friends—the txikiteo—that is as central to Basque social culture as any formal meal. The pintxos at Txistu are freshly made each morning and include the standards of the Basque bar repertoire: slices of tortilla on baguette, anchovies from Getaria marinated in vinegar and olive oil, salt cod brandade on crispy bread, Espelette pepper with Bayonne ham, and small skewers of chipirons à l'encre (baby squid in their ink). The kitchen prepares hot pintxos to order throughout the day—grilled shrimp, chipirons in garlic butter, and a simple omelette du jour. The bar is at its most electric on summer weekends when the square outside fills with visitors from across France and Spain, and the txikiteo culture of the Basque Country is impossible to miss. Txakoli—the slightly sparkling, low-alcohol Basque white wine poured from height to aerate it—is the drink of choice; cold cider from the Basque sidrerías is also available. The experience is standing, communal, loud, and joyful.