The Montagne de Reims is a forested plateau and regional natural park (Parc Naturel Régional de la Montagne de Reims) rising 300 metres above the Marne plain, 15 km south of Reims in the Marne département. The plateau is encircled by a necklace of Premier and Grand Cru champagne villages — Verzenay, Verzy, Ay, and Ambonnay — whose vineyards supply grapes to the grandes maisons of Reims and Épernay. A car is essential for reaching the villages: no public bus serves the vineyard circuit directly, though the distance from Reims centre to Verzenay is only 15 km (20 minutes). Cycling on the Route du Champagne, a signposted circuit, is also viable; bike hire is available in Reims at Cyclo'Champagne.
The Phare de Verzenay (Verzenay Lighthouse) is the area's most striking landmark: a 30-metre lighthouse built in 1909 as a publicity stunt by champagne producer Gustave Walbaum, now home to the Musée de la Vigne champagne interpretive museum (entry €8). Its rooftop gallery provides sweeping views over Grand Cru vineyards and, on clear days, toward Reims Cathedral. Verzy village, 3 km from Verzenay, contains the Faux de Verzy — a stand of naturally mutated umbrella beech trees (Fagus sylvatica tortuosa) with bizarrely twisted trunks and parasol canopies, a unique botanical curiosity free to visit via a short forest walk from the village car park.
Several small producers offer guided cellar tastings: René Collard at Reuil and Chartogne-Taillet at Merfy are regarded as quality independents offering intimate visits for €15–€25/person (advance booking required). The Ay wine cooperative accepts walk-in visitors throughout the year.
A suggested day arc from Reims: depart by 10 h, drive to Verzenay (20 min), visit the lighthouse museum (1 hour), continue to Verzy for the Faux de Verzy forest walk (45 min), then follow the D26 champagne circuit south through Bouzy and Ay for a tasting stop. Lunch in Ay — restaurants on the main square serve champagne menus for €25–€45 — before returning to Reims via the D951. September harvest weeks bring the most activity; May offers vine blossom and cooler walking conditions.
How to get there
- Car from Reims (20 min)
Location
Verzenay Lighthouse (Phare de Verzenay), 51360 Verzenay
49.1613, 4.1513 View on map
Highlights
- Phare de Verzenay: a 1909 champagne-house lighthouse with Grand Cru vineyard panoramas (entry €8)
- Faux de Verzy: a grove of uniquely gnarled umbrella beech trees — a free, botanically unexplained natural curiosity
- D26 champagne circuit: a signposted driving route through Premier and Grand Cru villages
- Small-producer cellar tastings in Verzenay, Verzy, Ay, and Ambonnay with advance booking
- Parc Naturel Régional de la Montagne de Reims: 22,000 hectares of forest and vineyard landscape
Tips for visiting
- A car is essential — no direct public bus serves the vineyard villages from Reims; cycling the Route du Champagne is the main car-free alternative
- Book small-producer tastings in advance: Chartogne-Taillet at Merfy and René Collard at Reuil fill quickly, especially in September
- Combine Verzenay lighthouse and the Verzy Faux de Verzy in the morning, then follow the D26 south through Bouzy and Ay in the afternoon
- September harvest weekends see peak activity around the vineyards; the Verzenay lighthouse car park fills by 11 h on these days
- Pack a picnic — village café options along the circuit are limited; Ay has the best restaurant choice on the route
When to visit
September and October for harvest activity and golden vineyard colour. May for vine blossom and cooler walking conditions. Weekdays outside harvest season offer the most intimate small-producer tasting experiences.
Frequently asked questions
Is it possible to visit the Montagne de Reims by bicycle?
Yes — the Route du Champagne is a signposted cycling circuit from Reims through the main villages. The terrain is rolling with some moderate gradients; a road bike or e-bike is suitable. Hire is available in Reims at Cyclo'Champagne.
What are the Faux de Verzy?
The Faux de Verzy are naturally mutated umbrella beeches (Fagus sylvatica tortuosa) with twisted trunks and parasol-shaped canopies. The grove has existed for centuries and the mutation remains botanically unexplained. Access is free via a short walk from the Verzy village car park.
Do champagne tastings in the villages need to be booked in advance?
At smaller producers such as Chartogne-Taillet and René Collard, advance booking is required and sessions are limited to small groups. The Ay wine cooperative accepts walk-in visitors; Bollinger at Ay requires advance booking for all visits.
Is the Montagne de Reims suitable for hiking?
The regional park contains marked hiking trails (GR 141 and GR de Pays) through forest and vineyard. A half-day walk from Verzy covers the Faux de Verzy beech grove and vineyard edges with minimal altitude gain.
How close is the Montagne de Reims to Épernay?
The village of Ay at the plateau's southern tip is just 6 km from Épernay, making it practical to combine both destinations in a single day — the Avenue de Champagne in the morning and the Montagne de Reims villages in the afternoon.