Iron Pagoda Park (Youguo Temple Pagoda)

Iron Pagoda Park in the Kaifeng Old City, Longting District, centres on the Youguo Temple Pagoda, a 55 metre tower built in 1049 during the Northern Song dynasty. The pagoda is called the Iron Pagoda because its glazed bricks are an iron-brown colour, although it is built of brick and not metal. It has thirteen storeys and an octagonal plan, and its surface is covered with glazed tiles moulded with Buddhas, musicians, flowers, animals and other figures, many of them still crisp after almost a thousand years. The pagoda has survived Yellow River floods that buried much of Kaifeng, as well as earthquakes and war, and it leans slightly. Visitors can climb a narrow internal spiral staircase to upper levels, where small windows give views across the old city and its rooftops. The climb is tight and steep, so it suits those comfortable with stairs. The surrounding park has gardens, older stelae, a smaller pagoda from a later period and shaded paths, which make it a relaxing place to walk. The main photo angle is from the open plaza in front, looking up at the tower against the sky, while detailed close-ups of the glazed tiles are possible at the base and lower levels. A visit takes one to one and a half hours. Early morning gives soft light and few visitors, and dusk is attractive when the tower is lit. Weekends and holidays bring tour groups, but the park is large enough to absorb them. The park is on the same side of the old city as Dragon Pavilion Park, so it fits easily into a walking day of Kaifeng sights. Bus 1 or 3 serves the area, and Didi from Kaifeng Station is about ¥15. Photography is allowed outside, and inside the pagoda visitors should watch for crowded stair landings.