Sarajevo is the capital and largest city of Bosnia and Herzegovina, home to about 275,000 people in a narrow valley along the Miljacka river. Ottoman bazaars, Austro-Hungarian boulevards, mosques, churches and a synagogue stand within a few minutes' walk of each other, and the compact centre is easy to explore on foot and by tram.
Sarajevo cooking is Bosnian-Ottoman: grilled minced-meat ćevapi in somun flatbread, pita pies (burek, sirnica, zeljanica) baked under a sač dome, slow-cooked stews such as bosanski lonac, stuffed vegetables (dolma, sarma) and syrupy desserts like baklava and tufahija. Meals are meat-forward and bread-heavy, served with kajmak (clotted cream), raw onion and yoghurt, and finished with Bosnian coffee. Most of the traditional restaurants sit in and around Baščaršija.
Must-try dishes
Iconic dishes that define Sarajevo.
Ćevapi
Small grilled minced-meat sausages served in a soft somun flatbread with chopped onion and optional kajmak; order a 'desetka' (ten pieces) at lunch
Where to try: Željo (Kundurdžiluk 12); Hodžić (Bravadžiluk 34); Mrkva (Bravadžiluk 13)
Price: About 8-12 KM per portion (approx USD 4.50-6.80)
Burek and pita
Flaky filo pastry rolled in a spiral; burek is meat-filled, with sirnica (cheese), zeljanica (spinach) and krompiruša (potato) as pies of the same family
Where to try: Buregdžinica Sač (Bravadžiluk area); any buregdžinica in Baščaršija
Price: About 4-7 KM per portion (approx USD 2.20-4)
Bosanski lonac
Slow-cooked Bosnian pot stew of beef, lamb and vegetables
Where to try: Inat Kuća (Veliki Alifakovac 1); Pod Lipom (Prote Bakovića 16)
Price: About 15-25 KM (approx USD 8.50-14)
Dolma and sogan-dolma
Peppers, onions or courgettes stuffed with spiced minced meat and rice
Where to try: Dveri (Prote Bakovića 10); Inat Kuća
Price: About 14-22 KM (approx USD 8-12.50)
Baklava and tufahija
Syrup-soaked nut pastry and a baked apple stuffed with walnuts and topped with cream
Where to try: Sweet shops around Baščaršija (Bravadžiluk and Sebilj area)
Price: About 2-6 KM (approx USD 1.10-3.40)
Bosnian coffee
Strong, unfiltered coffee brewed in a džezva and served with a sugar cube and a Turkish delight
Where to try: Coffee Bar Sebilj (Baščaršija 13); Morića Han courtyard (Sarači 77)
Price: About 2.50-4 KM (approx USD 1.40-2.20)
Top restaurants
Handpicked picks for the best dining experiences.
Restaurants by cuisine
Browse picks grouped by cuisine type.
Bosnian
Street food
Local flavours at affordable prices.
Burek
Meat pie sold by the slice or whole round in bakeries from early morning; served with plain yoghurt
Find it at: Buregdžinicas around Baščaršija and the Ferhadija pedestrian street
Ćevapi in somun
A takeaway ćevapi sandwich in flatbread, eaten standing at the counter
Find it at: Ćevabdžinicas on Bravadžiluk and Kundurdžiluk streets
Kifle and pastries
Savoury and sweet bakery rolls for a cheap breakfast
Find it at: Bakeries along Ferhadija and Maršala Tita
Food markets
Where locals shop and graze.
Markale (Gradska pijaca Markale)
Sarajevo's main covered and open-air market with fruit, vegetables, cheese, kajmak, dried meat and honey; the adjoining Veliki Park memorial marks the 1994 and 1995 market attacks
Hours: Mon-Sat about 7AM-6PM; Sun until about 2PM (varies by stall)
Ferhadija pedestrian street cafes and bakeries
Street with bakeries and casual eateries between the cathedral and Baščaršija
Hours: Shops about 8AM-9PM
Dining etiquette & tips
Navigate the local food scene confidently.
Ćevapi are a lunch food; ćevabdžinicas in Baščaršija are busiest between noon and 2PM and some close by 9-10PM.
Tap water is safe to drink; bottled water is about 2-3 KM (approx USD 1.10-1.70).
Tipping of about 10 percent, or rounding up the bill, is customary; service is not usually added.
Most small eateries accept cards but a few ćevabdžinicas take cash only, so carry Convertible Marks (KM).
Restaurants on Bravadžiluk and around Sebilj charge more; streets uphill toward Vratnik and Kovači are cheaper.
- Vegetarian
- Vegetarians eat sirnica, zeljanica, krompiruša, stuffed peppers, grilled vegetables and kajmak; many dishes contain meat stock, so ask for 'bez mesa'.
- Vegan
- Vegan choices are limited: lentil soup, bean stew (grah), grilled vegetables and fruit; a few newer cafes in the centre offer plant-based plates.
- Gluten free
- Somun, burek and pita are wheat-based. Grilled meat and salad are safe options; ćevapi can be ordered without bread.
- Halal
- Most meat in the old town is halal and pork is rare in Baščaršija; alcohol is served in many restaurants but not at the strictest ćevabdžinicas.
Food budget guide
What to expect at different price points.
| Level | Price | Description |
|---|---|---|
| Budget | 10-20 KM (approx USD 5.60-11) per meal | Ćevapi, burek or pita with yoghurt at a counter in Baščaršija. |
| Mid-range | 25-45 KM (approx USD 14-25) per meal | A sit-down meal at a traditional restaurant such as Inat Kuća or Pod Lipom with a drink. |
| Upscale | 50-90 KM (approx USD 28-51) per meal | Multi-course dinners at hillside terrace restaurants such as Park Prinčeva or Kibe Mahala with wine. |