Shah-Do Shamshira Mosque

The Shah-Do Shamshira Mosque stands on the bank of the Kabul River near the Mahmud Khan Bridge, in the heart of the Old City, and is one of the most photographed religious buildings in Kabul. Built in the early twentieth century in an Italianate style, it is painted in a distinctive pink and white, with arched windows, a small domed pavilion and decorative detailing that sets it apart from the plainer mosques around it. The name means roughly the king of two swords and refers to a legendary figure, said to have fought with a sword in each hand, whose shrine occupied the site before the present building was raised. The mosque is a working place of worship, so the best way to appreciate it is from the street and from the bridge, where the facade reads clearly against the river and the busy commercial streets behind. Non-Muslim visitors are reported to be admitted only by permission and outside prayer times, and should dress modestly, with covered arms and legs and, for women, a headscarf. A visit takes 20 to 30 minutes, mostly for the exterior, the courtyard if admitted, and photographs. Mid-morning is the calmest period, after early prayers and before the midday rush, while Fridays and the hours around prayer are crowded and photography can be sensitive. Entry is free. The mosque sits close to the markets of the Old City, so it combines easily with a walk through the surrounding bazaar lanes. A taxi from Shahr-e Naw costs roughly 80 to 150 AFN (approx $1-2) and takes about 10 minutes.