Hoan Kiem Lake and Ngoc Son Temple

Hoan Kiem Lake, the Lake of the Returned Sword, is the emotional and geographic centre of Hanoi, Vietnam, set between the Old Quarter to the north and the French Quarter to the south in Hoan Kiem District. According to legend, Emperor Le Loi returned a magic sword to a golden turtle here after defeating Ming invaders in the 15th century, giving the lake its name. A path of about 1.7 km rings the water and is lined with willows, flame trees and benches, making a full circuit an easy walk of 30 to 45 minutes. On a small island near the northern shore stands Ngoc Son Temple, reached by the red-painted wooden The Huc (Rising Sun) Bridge. The temple honours the general Tran Hung Dao, who defeated Mongol invaders in the 13th century, along with the scholar Van Xuong and the healer Nguyen Van Sieu. Inside, a preserved giant Yangtze softshell turtle, one of the last of its kind found in the lake, is displayed in a glass case. Small courtyards, incense burners and carved wooden details make a visit of 30 to 45 minutes worthwhile. Further south on a tiny islet is Turtle Tower (Thap Rua), a small moss-covered tower that is best photographed from the western shore. Sunrise between 5:30AM and 7:00AM is the most rewarding time, when locals practise tai chi, jog, play badminton and dance along the path. On Friday to Sunday evenings the streets around the lake are closed to traffic, and the area fills with families, street performers and food vendors. Midday is hot and busy, while the northern end near the water puppet theatre is the most crowded stretch. Good vantage points include The Huc Bridge at dawn, the path on the east side in late afternoon and the cafes along Dinh Tien Hoang and Dinh Le streets. The lake is free to walk at any hour, while Ngoc Son Temple charges 30,000 VND for entry.