Superiority Burger

Superiority Burger, Brooks Headley's small vegetarian restaurant at 119 Avenue A in the East Village, is one of the most remarkable restaurants in New York — a Michelin-starred operation that makes a compelling case that vegetarian fast food can be as satisfying as its meat-based counterparts, and that doing a small number of things exceptionally well is its own form of culinary ambition. Headley, who was the pastry chef at Del Posto before opening Superiority Burger in 2015, brings a high-technique background to what presents itself as a casual counter-service restaurant. The Superiority Burger itself — a patty made from a proprietary blend of grains, legumes, and vegetables that achieves a texture and crust approximating a smash burger — was one of the most discussed food innovations in New York when it appeared and has never required defending since. The Sloppy Dave, a loose vegetarian meat sauce on a toasted bun, is equally compelling. The menu changes regularly and features seasonal vegetable preparations, salads, and rotating specials that reflect both Headley's technique and the current Greenmarket offering. Desserts are made in-house and rotate with the same care as the savory items. The restaurant is tiny — a handful of counter seats and a small number of tables — and the queue extends onto Avenue A on weekends. A cash-friendly, counter-service format with paper menus and cheerful staff creates an atmosphere that bears no resemblance to the reverence that Michelin recognition might suggest. Superiority Burger is the rare restaurant that is simultaneously important and effortless.