Barney Greengrass

Barney Greengrass at 541 Amsterdam Avenue on Manhattan's Upper West Side has traded since 1908 and bills itself as the Sturgeon King. It is a Jewish appetizing shop and restaurant, meaning that the emphasis is on smoked and cured fish, cream cheese, eggs and bagels rather than the hot meats of a delicatessen. The signature order is nova and scrambled eggs with onions, and the sturgeon plate, which reflects the shop's nickname, is the other emblematic dish. Bagel and lox, whitefish salad, sable, chopped liver and blintzes fill out the menu, and many items are served with bagels or bialys and traditional accompaniments. The dining room is plain and old-fashioned, with a counter for takeaway fish and a sit-down room that fills quickly with locals, families and visitors, and the mood is casual, friendly and a little brusque. Noise is moderate to loud at weekend brunch. There is no dress code. Beverages are basic and include coffee, tea and soda. The restaurant is a walk-in operation, and long weekend waits are common, so visitors often arrive early or come on a weekday. It typically opens Tuesday to Sunday during the daytime, and current hours should be confirmed. Prices are moderate to upper-moderate because smoked fish is costly, and a sit-down breakfast for two commonly runs a few dozen dollars. The shop also sells fish by the pound for takeaway, which suits travellers who want to prepare a picnic. It is a short walk from Central Park and the American Museum of Natural History, so it works as a breakfast before a day in the Upper West Side within New York City.