Curtea de Argeș Monastery and Town

Curtea de Argeș, in Argeș County, Romania, lies about 150 km north-west of Bucharest at the foot of the Southern Carpathians, and is home to one of the country's most celebrated religious buildings. The Curtea de Argeș Monastery, with its cathedral completed in the early 16th century under Prince Neagoe Basarab, is renowned for its elaborately carved stone exterior and Byzantine-influenced design. The cathedral serves as the royal necropolis, where King Carol I, Ferdinand I and their queens are buried, and it is associated with the legend of Master Manole, who according to folk tradition walled his wife into the building so that it would stand. The town was also an early capital of Wallachia, and visitors can see the ruins of the Princely Court and the Church of St Nicholas nearby. The journey is the most demanding of the Bucharest day trips in this guide: a CFR Călători InterRegio train from Gara de Nord to Pitești takes 1 hour 45 minutes to 2 hours, followed by a local bus or Regio train for 45 to 60 minutes, totalling about 3 hours each way. Driving via the A1 motorway and DN7C takes roughly 2 hours and is much more flexible. Because of the long transfers, an early start is essential, with arrival around late morning. A suggested day is to see the monastery first, followed by the Princely Court ruins, and then lunch in the town before heading back. The Vidraru Dam and Transfăgărășan road lie further north, but they require a car and extra time, so they are better suited to overnight trips. Restaurants in the town centre serve traditional Romanian dishes. April to October offers the best weather, with spring and autumn giving soft light on the carved stonework. Visitors should dress modestly, with covered shoulders and knees, as this is an active place of worship. Because of the multi-leg transfers and long return journey, the trip is classed as hard, although the walking on site is light.